Your reasoning strongly suggests that you are using the rails in a professional setting.Actually a pure hobby use and not plans for commercial. That why bothered to put up the "stages" concept, as the rails are not cheap.
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As to accurate cutting of rails, chopping a bit off is easy I agree but cutting a holy rail (the ends must be accurately square and holes perfectly spaced from the cut end unless it’s always going to be a standalone unit) is a different case and you will always have to chop out a longer section to achieve that.The thing is, I found the practical squareness (granted, I used the GRS rail square) of cutting a rail with a tracksaw is actually better than how they come from factory. I think this is because the rail ends are not considered "reference edge" hence Festool does not bother with super-accuracy there. The only real need is to have the cut rail "upside down" below the rail on which saw goes and have it supported where it is thin.
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You seem to be arguing that your situation is in any way universally true or applicable.Thanks for this. Should reword the post as that was not the intended message.
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As for the Festool bars making any kind of problems, they never have for me in 15 years, I don’t have a torque screwdriver, I only found out about them a couple of months ago, and am perfectly capable of judging the correct tightening of most fixtures. The only time I will use a torque wrench is in a case like automotive engine fittings where it is needed.You are right the Festool ones "work", but I cannot recommend them to anyone while the Makita ones are at 1/2 cost *and* are just fool-proof unlike the Festool ones.
Had the Makita or TSO ones been available I would quite possibly have bought them, they weren’t and the case for them is rather exaggerated IMNSHO as is the Festool “damage”.
Actually a pure hobby use and not plans for commercial. That why bothered to put up the "stages" concept, as the rails are not cheap.The selection above is done to allow the purchase of the least of rails while getting the most of value. If you look, already by "Stage 2", with just 2 1400 holy rails, one gets:- full rip capability- a handy 1016 rail for most post-rip work- optimal cross-cut length option (an issue with having pure 2 x 1400 as one is short and two are too long)- holy-rail single-joint option up to 2424 equivalentThe thing is, I found the practical squareness (granted, I used the GRS rail square) of cutting a rail with a tracksaw is actually better than how they come from factory. I think this is because the rail ends are not considered "reference edge" hence Festool does not bother with super-accuracy there. The only real need is to have the cut rail "upside down" below the rail on which saw goes and have it supported where it is thin.The second thing (I did not know before did it) is that when you join holly rails, there is - by design - an 8 mm (3/16") gap between the rails and the 32m system holes are actually what you use as reference to join them exactly. Not the ends. I advise to make the ends same distance as the factory rails have just for simplicity, is not strictly required.This "8mm design-gap" is a plenty for accurately cutting a holy rail via two precise cuts anywhere "in between the holes" and getting thus an arbitrary length split which is still fully compatible with the factory endings.I chose the "376" (11.75 x 32mm) as the "shorty" size because it is the biggest that fits in a Systainer. Any length above 350 that is XX.75 x 32mm would be OK for the "shorties". You just need about 250mm/10" after the connector end for T-slot clamps to fitThanks for this. Should reword the post as that was not the intended message.It is a "hi guys, here is how I would do it based on my learning from past mistakes my acquired understanding of what is possible with the least of budget".I have thought this approach as a reaction of how I have wasted a lot of money on rails (for a hobby user) while still missing key functionality - like buying the 2700 only to realize it is too short for rips and too long for full-cross-cut while 1400 is too short for the cross-cuts instead. [/quote]You are right the Festool ones "work", but I cannot recommend them to anyone while the Makita ones are at 1/2 cost *and* are just fool-proof unlike the Festool ones.The TSO ones are an upgrade over both in speed and so is the Betterley. But come with a cost and their theoretical accuracy is no better than Festool/Makita ones + straight edge used correctly.So I do not think they make economical sense for hobby use. A hobbyist is much better to use the saved money for an engineer's straight edge which is good for other uses too.EDIT: A bit more clarity ref. the 8mm, "spacing" when holy rails are connected for LR32 work.
4 steps to select your linear guide rail ? You also call it guide, linear guide, sliding rail or telescopic rail but you don’t know which one to choose? Morevover CHAMBRELAN offers you 30 references, 3 different materials and a huge choice of lengths, runners, and options depending on the use…
First of all, let’s define what a linear rail is:
This 4 steps guide help you in selecting THE linear guide you need!
We also invite you to discover on our Youtube channel a video presentation of our different linear guide rails
Contents :
1- Rail length and stroke
Thus, the dimension of your linear guide rail will be:
Dimension used by the linear bearing runners
+ Stroke Length
+ Dimensions of the end stops
= Minimum overall length of your guide rail
Just ask us and we will provide you with the linear guide you need! CHAMBRELAN offers you:
You wish to integrate a rail of a specific length into your project or to receive your rails pre-drilled or with an option? Once again, we have the solution! As a manufacturer, CHAMBRELAN designs for you the ideal sliding rail for your installation, to the millimetre! No more need to cut it in your workshop, we do it for you! A drilling, a lubrication or a specific treatment is necessary? We can do it for you! We invite you to discover our options at the end of this article!
Linear rail with ball bearing runner
2 – Ball bearing or roller runners and load
Once you have chosen the length of your linear guide rail, comes the question of the runner.
The available space and above all the mass of your device will be decisive in the choice of the ball bearing runner. The load we give is indicated PER RUNNER: thus mounting 2 sliders doubles the load capacity. And we have in our range recirculating ball bearing slides that can support 600 kilos per runner!
The load defines the runner which in turns defines the rail!
We manufacture our guides based on 2 technology: Ball bearing runner or roller runner What are the differences between these two types?
Ball bearing runner :
It is the most popular of our range and is perfectly adapted to industrial environments. Strong and compact, these linear rails with recirculating ball bearing runner can support hundreds of kilos, like the E98/G12 ultra-heavy-duty steel linear rail.
Recirculating Ball Bearing Runner
Roller runners:
We propose two references of roller skid supporting medium to heavy loads: one full stainless steel guide rail, the other in steel with plastic coated rollers.
These two types of runner can be inserted in several linear guide rails (in steel, aluminium or stainless steel). They slide smoothly and quietly in the rail, more than the recirculating bearing runners. They are appreciated for installations on sliding doors, machine housings or protective hoods. They are adjustable, in so far as the middle runner is on an adjustable excentric screw. This allow to adjust the play and the movment smoothness.
Although a flat mounting is possible and less penalizing than for a telescopic slide, we always recommend an major axis mounting! Indeed, for the same reference, the load can be divided by two depending on the type of mounting:
3- Material
:As for our range of telescopic slides, we offer three different materials depending on your project:
Although steel is the most common material, sometimes it is necessary to use stainless steel for outdoor environments or clean rooms. Although steel is the most common material, sometimes it is necessary to use stainless steel for outdoor environments or clean rooms.
5 – Options :
By following these different steps, you have just determined the standard guide rail that you need to meet your needs! How about going a little further? Indeed, CHAMBRELAN offers several options to help you build your project!
Do not hesitate to share your projects with us!
CHAMBRELAN offers you the most adapted rail of your project! To help you to identify the right reference do not hesitate to contact us to discuss it!
For more information, please visit Custom Ceramic Foam Filte, High-Purity Metal Chromium, Aluminum Casting Auxiliary Materials supplier.