Key Questions to Ask When Ordering black stainless steel mirror

08 Apr.,2024

 

3)BACKING - The type of mirror backing correlates to the environmental conditions the mirror must withstand. -

* The back will determine if the mirror can go outdoors or if it is only to be used indoors. The most common backs used in outdoor conditions are the galvanized steel. There are however several options depending on the environment where the mirror is to be installed.


NO BACKING - INDOOR USE ONLY - These mirrors have the swivel mount glued directly to the back of the mirror lens. They cost less and work well for indoor and dry conditions. Occasionally getting these mirrors wet is not a problem as long as it isn't in constant dampness. Over a long period of time the larger sizes (30 and 36 inch) tend to sag a little due to not being supported around the mirror edge. However, the mirror will still perform as intended. Not having a protective rim around the lens can also be a potential problem if something strikes the edge. Without having any protection, the lens can be more easily damaged.

The mirrors with no back are great for those areas inside a building and in locations where there is little chance it will be hit on the edge.


BROWN HARDBOARD - INDOOR USE ONLY - These mirrors are also less expensive and limited to an indoor and dry environment. The chance of sagging on the larger sizes is extremely reduced and there is better protection around the edge of the mirror. NOTE: The �RP...� and �AL...� mirrors with the brown hardboard backer have a thick rubber rim where the SA... mirrors have a thin but effective adhesive tape. If there is a high chance of the mirror edge being hit, the �RP.. or AL..� part numbered mirrors should be considered because they stand a better chance of survival.


ABS PLASTIC - INDOOR or OUTDOOR USE - The ABS backed mirror is a very versatile mirror. The ABS back is waterproof, and will hold up to moderate weather conditions. They all have a thick locking rubber rim to protect the edge. The smaller sizes under 30" will stand up to higher wind conditions. Because ABS plastic will flex, the larger sizes may wiggle high in winds. The only drawback to the ABS back is that ABS is not UV Proof and over time will become brittle if exposed to direct sunlight, every day, throughout the day. The ABS backed mirrors are an excellent choice for outside, protected and/or shaded areas.

NOTE:   The default backing for the "Mild weather Use" SA mirrors is the ABS back. Go to �Convex mirrors/Outside Mildweather Use� for those items.


POLYCARBONATE PLASTIC - OUTDOOR or INDOOR USE - Polycarbonate is classified as "Unbreakable". It will not rust and will stand up to wet conditions. While the Polycarbonate backed mirrors are a new design, they seem to be proving themselves to be reliable and versatile. The Polycarbonate back is a great choice for about any situation.


A note about high wind conditions:   We cannot guaranty the swivel mount, on the large sizes, will retain at the set angle in high wind conditions. If you know the wind will be often times 40 MPH and greater, and the size you will need is greater than 26", then you may need to check the mirror angle to see if it is holding. You may also consider the heavier steel backed style.


GALVANIZED STEEL - OUTDOOR USE - The galvanized back is the most commonly sold mirror. Galvanized steel resists rust, is UV and heat proof and will stand up to windy weather. The 20 gauge galvanized steel is laminated to a hardboard back to increase the strength allowing the mirror to stand up to higher winds with little flexing when compared to the ABS backed mirrors. All outdoor use mirrors have a protective rim around the lens which adds strength to the mirror and protection to the mirror edge.


STAINLESS STEEL - OUTDOOR USE - The Stainless Steel back has everything the above galvanized steel back has. It is weatherproof, UV light proof and additionally more resistant to a caustic environment. For example, close to the beach where the salt can cause rust to form on about any metal surface. In those conditions you may want the stainless steel back over the galvanized or if you just don't want to see any rust. There is no advantage to strength when comparing the stainless to galvanized steel backs. Both are laminated to a hardboard back for additional strength and have the protective bumper rim around the lens.


NOTE:   Galvanized steel may, over years in full weather conditions, become a little rusty but it will be many years before its strength is compromised.

Last week I signed off on a white oak floating vanity with a local cabinet maker for our main bathroom. It was exciting to get a major piece of the bathroom puzzle finalized, and with that momentum I was eager to work out some of the finer design details too, like vanity mirrors and metal finishes.

I took a look back at the inspiration photos for my bathroom design, and noticed that I'm drawn to rectangular mirrors with rounded corners. Another long-time favorite of mine is Alli's stunning bathroom—and look! More rounded corners:

Since I've been researching alllll my options for vanity mirrors, I've put together a few of my favorites in case anyone else is on the lookout! I'm leaning towards a brushed gold finish for our bathroom, but I've included a variety in this round-up, and many of these options are available in multiple finishes:

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As well as gleaning for mirrors, I've also been giving a lot of thought to the metal finishes I'll be using in this bathroom. Initially, I had planned to use matte black plumbing fixtures, but having since made a decision to use oil rubbed bronze bronze door hardware, I'm leaning towards something lighter and warmer in our main bathroom, like light bronze or brushed nickel.

I know it can be tempting to stick to one metal finish everywhere, but I think that when done intentionally, mixing metals is a great way to add interest and depth, without sacrificing cohesiveness. Whilst I don't consider myself an authority on "design rules", nor do I think rules are the be-all-and-end-all (rules < intuition), I wanted to share how I'm approaching this in our own home.

First off, I'm choosing three metals for the entire house, and sticking largely to those throughout. I'm not going to worry too much about keeping the same exact finish everywhere (eg. unlacquered brass vs. satin brass vs. aged brass) as these finishes can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer anyway, but I will try and limit the mix of finishes within a single room so that it doesn't get too choppy.

So which metals to choose?

I think the biggest "a-ha" moment I had was when I learned that much like paint colors, metals have undertones. Now here's where personal aesthetic and preference comes into play: I generally prefer the look of warm/neutral metals over cool metals, so that's what I'll be using. (There are a couple of places in our home where I'm incorporating cool metal tones...but I'll get to that later!)

There are plenty of designers who advise a mix of warm and cool tones to create contrast and balance, but that's just not my preference. I don't think there's necessarily a right or wrong way though, as long as you stay consistent with your choices. A good way to learn what you like is to study a few favorite inspiration photos and make notes on the finishes used in each photo. What metal undertones are being used? How many metals are used? What finishes and combinations are you drawn to?

Here's a quick list of metals and their undertones:

Warm toned metals: brass, nickel, copper, bronze

Cool toned metals: chrome, steel, aluminium, zinc

Neutral metals: wrought iron, and other black finishes

For the interior of our home, I've chosen bronze, nickel and brass. All warm undertones, but the dark bronze will act as a neutral to anchor the brighter tones.

Let's look at how these metal choices might play out in our main bathroom:

Notice there's a good amount of contrast between the metals, and I'm sticking to one finish for each "category" of hardware/fixture for consistency. I haven't used all three of my metals in this room, but that's ok—they'll be used elsewhere around the house.

How to break "the rules"

Now, I did say I was using a few cool toned metals outside of my three metal choices (bronze, nickel and brass), and this is how I'm working in other elements so that they become an intentional part of the design:

Our kitchen will have stainless steel accents (the appliance handles, the faucet and the stove knobs) which has a cool undertone. This is the only place I'm using stainless steel in the house, so I'm avoiding using too many other metal finishes in the kitchen so that it doesn't have too much to compete with. In addition, the dark countertops will act as a neutral backdrop for all of the metal finishes.

Our exterior will have bronze door hardware and zinc gutters/lighting. Warm (bronze) and cool (zinc). The roof shingles I'm leaning towards have a blend of cool/warm tones which ties the metal finishes together, with the black siding acting as a neutral.

Ultimately, I think the essence of what I'm trying to say is that being intentional with metal mixing is the key. I bet you could make anything work (within reason!) as long as there are elements that support and complement your choices of metal. Choosing two or three metals that you like in combination with each other and within the wider context of your home is a great place to start—and taking note of what catches your attention in inspiration photos is the very first step.

Gosh! I had a lot to say on that topic. Now that I've shared the basic framework I'm using for choosing metals throughout our new build (and where I'm breaking my own rules!) what questions do you have? I'd love to dive into more detail in future blog posts so please ask away!

Key Questions to Ask When Ordering black stainless steel mirror

Vanity Mirror Round-Up, and Some Thoughts on Mixing Metals