How do I choose fabric weight?

Whether you're an experienced sewist or just venturing into the world of textiles, understanding fabric weight is essential. It's like unlocking the secret code to choosing the perfect fabric for your projects. We're here to shed light on this often-misunderstood aspect of fabrics so you can confidently select materials that align with your creative visions.

What is Fabric Weight?

In simple terms, fabric weight refers to how heavy or light a fabric is, usually measured in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). It's a crucial factor influencing the drape, durability, and functionality of your creations. Let's dive a little deeper into why it matters.

• Drape and Structure: Imagine a flowing dress made of lightweight chiffon versus a structured coat crafted from heavy wool. Fabric weight often affects how a garment hangs on your body. Lighter fabrics are usually drapier, while heavier ones like denim or wool often lend more structure and form.
• The Knit Twist: Knitting uses more fibres or threads than weaving, resulting in more weight. Also, knit fabrics often feature spandex or lycra, adding extra weight without necessarily impacting their perceived feel or behaviour. This means that a knit fabric with a specific weight can feel surprisingly lightweight, defying expectations set by its numerical value. So, when it comes to knits, remember that weight isn't the sole indicator – the interplay of materials can create a unique tactile experience that's more than meets the eye.
• Durability and Purpose: The weight of a fabric can determine its durability and intended use. Heavier materials are often sturdier and better suited for items that need to withstand wear and tear, such as outerwear, workwear or upholstery. On the other hand, lighter fabrics are perfect for delicate projects like airy blouses or summer dresses.
• Selecting the Right Fabric Weight: When choosing a fabric, it's essential to consider the project you have in mind. Think about the desired attributes – warmth, breathability, drape – and match them to the appropriate fabric weight.
• Experimentation and Creativity: Don't be afraid to experiment! The same pattern can take on a completely different vibe with different fabric weights. By understanding this concept, you'll open up a world of creative possibilities.

Core Fabrics Weight Chart:

Use this handy tool to guide you through the fabric weight spectrum and help you pick the perfect fabric for your next sewing project.

Fabric Type Fabric Weight (GSM) Fabric Weight (oz/

yd²

) Common Fabric Examples Common Uses Ultra Light

Under 100 GSM

Under 3 oz/yd²

Chiffon, georgette, voile, lace, tulle

Breezy dresses & blouses, lingerie, scarves

Lightweight

100 - 170 GSM

3 - 5 oz/yd²

Lightweight linen, cotton (shirting, chambray, batik, ikat), rayon challis, viscose twill, EcoVero viscose, Tencel jersey

Tops, shirts, skirts, summer dresses

Midweight

170 - 340 GSM

5 - 10 oz/yd²

Midweight linen, twill, textured viscose linen, Tencel rib, Tencel + cotton jersey, bamboo jersey

Pants, tops, structured dresses, lightweight jackets

Heavyweight Bottomweight

340 - 400 GSM

10 - 11.8 oz/yd²

Heavy canvas, denim, coating, fleece, ponte, jacquard, brocade

Jeans, cozy sweaters, coats 

Ultra Heavy

Over 400 GSM

Over 11.8 oz/yd²

Heavy duty denim, canvas, waxed cotton, coating, upholstery fabrics

Cozy coats, winter wear, upholstery

 

Ultra Light & Lightweight Fabrics:

Ultra light and lightweight fabrics clock in anywhere from 170 GSM down to a mere 10 GSM (or even less). These are the ethereal confections of the fabric world, made for crafting enchanting dresses, tops, and adding touches as interfacings and linings. Think taffeta, silk, voile, tulle, and all sorts of light beauties that give your creations that delicate, airy flair. They're all about that effortless drape that catches the breeze just right. While they're your go-to for hot weather, they're not necessarily appropriate for things like pants or shorts. But boy, can they work magic when it comes to making a statement dress or a carefree, floaty blouse.

Midweight Fabrics:

Weighing in at 170 to 340 GSM, midweight fabrics are the versatile all-stars of the textile world. They're up for anything – tops, bottoms, light jackets, dresses, you name it. If versatility had a weight, it would be midweight. Picture light twill, jersey, our self-explanatory Midweight Linen, chambray, wool suiting, oxford, muslin, and most of our viscose prints. These tend to be fully opaque, though lighter colours on the lighter side of the weight range can start to get translucent. They're also not as rigidly structured as the heavyweight fabrics (though they can take a crease nicely depending on the fibre), and some of them (including knits) can be quite drapey.

Heavyweight, Bottomweight & Ultra Heavy Fabrics:

Finally, let's talk about the heavy hitters – we're talking bottomweight and heavyweight fabrics like denim, canvas, and melton wool. They usually weigh in at 340 GSM and up. Why "bottomweight"? Well, they're great for making, you guessed it, bottoms – pants, skirts, you name it. They've got that dense and sturdy weave, which gives them that "bottom of the scale" status. If you're into knits, the same weight can bring on the warm fuzzies – think fleece, sweater knit, and scuba knit. Knit bottomweights can also feature some dramatic draping, like heavy velvet.

To Sum Up:

Remember, the factors we discussed are important considerations when you're selecting the right fabric for your project. However, keep in mind that they're not strict rules set in stone. Feel free to go against the grain and opt for a fabric weight that resonates with your vision. Just be aware that your final garment may not behave the same as if it were made with a fabric weight that your pattern calls for.

That's why we've got the Perfect Match collections and specific fabric categories – to help you navigate this creative journey. So, go ahead! Sew those ultra-heavyweight denim jeans you've been dreaming of, or give that delicate, wispy blouse a shot. You've got all the tools to make the perfect fabric choice.

Before you manufacture your next blouse, trouser, or tracksuit it is important for your brand to reference the different weights.

Understanding fabric weights to choose the right fabric can be mirky water. Before you manufacture your next blouse, trouser, or tracksuit it is important for your brand to reference the different weights.

First and foremost, the fabric weight measures various textiles from silk to cotton to canvas to polyester and is determined by the thickness of the threads that make up the fabric. Based on that, designers and manufacturers can decide the most suitable fabric for their pieces.

Fabric weight is split into three categories:

Lightweight

Medium

Heavyweight

Lightweight fabric is considered to be chiffon, organza, linen, mesh, lace, silk, cotton, felt, and neoprene. While medium-weight fabrics are velvet, nylon, taffeta, oxford, and sateen. Other fabrics like denim, canvas, suede, wool, flannel, and tweed fall under the category of heavyweight fabrics.

Grasping what fabric weights are is key for a clothing brand because fabric weights determine whether you will achieve a certain look you are aiming for.

For example, a denim apparel brand will want to stay clear of lightweight fabrics and opt for a heavier fabric weight. On the other hand, if you are introducing a spring line of skirts and dresses you will want to choose a lightweight fabric because that will affect the drape and shape of your sundresses.

Converting GSM

When it comes to fabric weights in the United States it is important to keep in mind that the U.S. refers to different weights like ounces but in manufacturing, the U.S. follows gsm. Gsm means grams per square meter, while oz means the weight per square yard.

Lightweight fabrics typically fall between 30 to 150 gsm, medium-weight fabrics are 150 to 350 gsm and heavier fabrics are 350 + gsm.

Typically, a plain t-shirt falls between 120-180 gsm, a printed tee is 180 gsm, a premium polo is 240 gsm, zipper hoodies and non-zipper hoodies are 320 gsm, and luxury/heavy weighted items can be 450 gsm at times.

As you calculate and convert oz to gsm, you divide the gsm by 33.906 — it is as simple as that. When you are calculating the gsm from the oz do the opposite by multiplying by 33.906.

Why bother with a calculator when there are online resources like a fabric weight converter. Or other calculators like this one by Wazoodle Fabrics.

Fabric Weight Conversion

Because U.S. manufacturing uses gsm conversion is necessary with fabric weights. In a nutshell, this is a quick conversion and round-up of the result products you will get with a certain amount of gsm.

GSM 

OZ/SQ YD

FABRIC

END RESULT

50-100

1.47-2.95

Gauze, batiste, chiffon, charmeuse, voile

Flowy blouses, lined dresses, and skirts

100-170

2.95-5.01

Quilting weight cotton, ikat, shirtings, chambray, silk noil, rayon challis, double gauze

Shirts, dresses, skirts, blouses, etc. The standard dress-making fabric

170-230

5.01-6.78

Cotton/spandex knit, linen, barkcloth, stretch sateen, Tencel twill

Structured skirts and dresses, pants, lightweight jackets

230-240

6.78-10.03

Canvas, sweatshirt fleece, heavy linen, Ponte knit, stretch denim

Sweaters, fall jackets, bags, pants, stretch jeans

340-450

10.03-13.27

Wool coating, canvas, rigid denim

Coats, upholstery, non-stretch jeans

All in all, a heavier weighted fabric like canvas will result in a more structured garment while lighter weight fabric like chiffon results in a flimsy garment.

For more information and questions about fabric weights get in touch with Dhakai at info@dhakai.com